What To Know About The Skin Barrier
If your skin has ever experienced redness, itching, swelling or dryness, it may be a sign that your skin barrier has been compromised. Our skin barrier, also called the lipid barrier, is the protective matrix in the outermost layer of the skin. It consists of lipids, the acid mantle and the skin’s microbiome.
The skin barrier is important because it not only helps nutrients absorb into our skin, but it also protects our skin from irritants and prevents water loss. By having a healthy lipid barrier, skin care products (and topical medications or creams!) will absorb into the skin and produce better results. We don’t want to pay $100 for a cream that doesn’t even make it through the lipid barrier, right?!
What does a weak skin barrier look like?
The primary function of the stratum corneum, the outer layer of our epidermis, is to act as a front-line defense against everyday environmental stressors. When our skin barrier is compromised, pollution, UV rays, allergens, bacteria and other irritants have a much better chance of penetrating our skin and causing damage.
When you have a compromised lipid barrier you may experience:
-inflammation
-itchiness
-redness
-rosacea
-hyperpigmentation,
-sensitivity
-premature aging
-dryness
-peeling
-acne
What causes a compromised skin barrier?
Now that we know what a compromised skin barrier looks like, let’s talk about what can causes the skin barrier to weaken. One of the biggest contributors is age. As we get older, our body composition changes and we lose water in our skin. This water loss results in dryness as the skin loses its ability to retain water and moisture.
We can still age gracefully, though, and counteract or slow down the process by avoiding certain things. In addition to age, other factors that weaken the skin barrier are medications (like steroids), dry climates, microneedling, excessive cleansing, over exfoliating. UV rays and exposure to harsh chemicals.
So, wear your sunscreen and watch how you exfoliate!
How to repair the skin barrier
The first step is to avoid harsh products - this includes clarifying cleansers, products with AHA and BHA or other exfoliators, all retinoids, and alcohol-based masks or toners.
Use a gentle, creamy or milk-based cleanser, a hydrating toner, hydrating serum with ingredients like hyaluronic acid, ceramides, squalene, niacinamide, or essential fatty acids (from plant oils), barrier repairing moisturizer and SPF. Remember, serums are usually more $$, but this is also what gives you the biggest results. (*hint* you don’t need much!)
Stick to room temperature. Avoid taking hot baths and showers as this will further damage your skin barrier.
Be consistent with this routine for 2-4 weeks and reintroduce your exfoliators or retinoids slowly (i.e. not all at once!).
See below for some of my recommendations:
Gentle Cleanser
Emogene & Co. Ritual Foaming Milk Cleanser $27
Skin Fix Barrier + Foaming Cleanser $30
Ren Evercalm Gentle Cleanser $37
Pure Fiji Coconut Cleansing Balm #39
Soothing Toner
Avoid alcohol-based toners which strip and dry out the skin and instead choose ones that are hydrating.
Clarins Extra Comfort Toner $27
First Aid Beauty Wild Oat Toner $24
Emogene & Co. Renew Facial Toner $22
Kiehl’s Calendula Herbal Extract $42
Serums
Focus on ingredients such as hyaluronic acid or plant based ingredients- these will be calming and repair the barrier.
Moon Juice Plump Jelly Serum $58
Tata Harper’s Bio-Barrier Serum $130
Odacite Camelina Chamomile Serum $39
SkinCeuticals Redness Neutralizer $67
Cocokind Ceramide Barrier Serum $20
Moisturizers
Dermalogica Barrier Repair $49
Skinfix Barrier + Triple Lipid Peptide Repair Cream $52
Cerave Moisturizing Lotion $18
Fresh Lotus Preserve Cream $52
Pure Fiji Hydrating Multi-Active Day Cream $64
Sunscreen
Protect your skin with SPF. A broad-spectrum sunscreen should be the last step in your skincare regimen. A few of my favorites are below!
Biossance Squalane + Zinc Mineral Sunscreen $30